In this three-part series on establishments specializing in craft pizza and serving craft beer, we interview the chefs themselves on their passion.
Part Two: Jason Koehler of Devil Craft
Part Three: Derek Thomas of Pizzakaya
Part One: Joon Ou of Nakameguro Taproom
What is your background in pizza? How did you get started?
Actually, this is my first experience in making pizza! I have worked in the kitchens of several luxury hotels here in Tokyo and Korea. My background is actually in continental fine dining with a handful of modern American and Asian cuisine thrown in. I’ve always wanted to make pizza so when Baird Brewing’s John Chesen and Bryan Baird approached me with a pizza concept for their Nakameguro Taproom, I was very excited. I studied pizza on my own and got a crash course at the International Pizza Expo in Las Vegas last year.
Can you please describe the style of pizza you specialize in now? What’s its history?
The style of pizza we specialize in is called New Haven style, also known as Neo-Neapolitan style. This style originates from New Haven, Connecticut where there was a large population of Italian immigrants in the early 20th century. The Italian immigrants brought over their pizza traditions and baked on a coal-fired oven which resulted in a pizza with a bit more char and crunch than their Neapolitan ancestors.
What are some of your specialty pizzas?
One of our specialty pizzas is the Clam Pie, which is a New Haven classic. It’s a simple pizza topped with clams, fresh garlic, Pecorino Romano cheese, and a squeeze of lemon. We also have a seasonal pizza that changes every two weeks. Past pizzas include the “Thai Pie” with basil chicken and sweet chili sauce, and pizza topped with brussels sprouts, bacon, and Fontina. Unlike traditional Neapolitan pizzas, which are quite strict on what can and can’t be put on the pies, we have the freedom to top our pies with a variety of fresh, seasonal ingredients.
Why do you think craft beer goes so well with your particular pizza?
Our pizza has a thin crust that is crispy on the outside and slightly chewy on the inside. This makes for a pizza that doesn’t fill you up with unnecessary bread so you can enjoy the high-quality toppings and many pints of your favorite beer! We are also careful not to over-cheese or over-sauce our pizzas so you can actually taste all the tasty toppings we use.
Which are some of your favorite craft beers?
From Baird Brewing, I am a huge fan of the Kurofune Porter and Single Take Session Ale. I also love anything from Hair of the Dog and Cascade. Sorry, Portland is my hometown!
What are your plans/goals from here on?
As far as our pizza goes, we will be expanding the menu slowly throughout the year as well as starting pizzas to go. We want everyone to know about our pizza style and provide a bit of variety and fun in the sometimes uptight world of pizza in Japan. Most importantly, we want to spread the word about the delicious wonders of “Craft Pizza + Craft Beer”!
http://bairdbeer.com/en/taproom/nakameguro-taproom